MERCEDES BENZ BERLIN FASHION WEEK – AUTUMN WINTER 2022: HIGHLIGHTS

Jaime E. Love

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All Image and Video Credit Mercedes Benz Berlin Fashion Week, Mercedes Benz Berlin Facebook and Participating Designers

 

A lacey green Thirties-inspired gown – at Killian Kerner

To say the German capitol Berlin was sizzling hot with all things fashionable in the middle of a rather chilly March would be a gross understatement. Local German fashion designers and talent from far as afield as Finland, Ukraine and Austria descended upon Kraftwerk Berlin as part of the highly anticipated Fall 2022 Mercedes Benz Fashion Week event.

As ever there was an overwhelming, intoxicating dose of fashion to be tried and experienced everywhere! There were runway shows, on-site presentations, exhibits, talks, discussion groups, digital collections as well as the famous ‘Berliner Salon’ with its stunning exhibits … all amidst an ever-present awareness of the importance of sustainability, digitization and innovation within fashion for 2022 and beyond. In parallel with the shows, behind the scenes scores of super talented hair and beauty wizards were creating their own magic for the shows and lookbooks.

Truly, there were no limits to the creativity, energy and buzz all around! We saw sculptural and theatrically dramatic collections, ‘well-mannered’ and classically tailored pieces, elegant sportswear and gritty streetwear, gorgeous accessories and far too many ‘must-have’ pieces! The signature trend defining the shows – without a shadow of a doubt – has to be the vibrancy and boldness of colour running through the collections: shocking pink, neon yellow, poison green, brightest gold metallics … the brightness and bravery of colour knew no limits. A few collections deliberately showcased rainbow designs, which were uber positive, cheery and heralded hope.

Why not hop aboard for a whistle-stop tour to a special selection of our hand-picked favourites? And a very appropriate place to start under the circumstances is a peek at the work of a very famous Ukranian designer …

 

Jean Gritsfeldt

This Kyiv designer has been an inherent part of Ukraine’s Fashion Week and is one of the fastest-growing local brands, known for its multi-layering and eccentric use of colour and texture. But to make the point this season Jean Gritsfeldt decided not to show his originally designed collection and opted instead for a very strong message printed across starkly simple clothes. We think the end effect and message are beyond poignant.

A picture tells a story – at Jean Gritsfeldt

Powerful red eye make-up at Jean Gritsfeldt

A message of hope – at Jean Gritsfeldt

Highlighting the issue of the moment – at Jean Gritsfeldt

 

Danny Reinke

Filled with the brightest of colour, this is a very emotive collection, one in which Danny Reinke invites us to celebrate both our positive and negative feelings. It’s a collection filled with the boldest of colours, it’s sophisticated and elegant with its textiles and textures of pin stripes, polka dots, boucle, knits, leather and plaid – and wonderfully Eighties-inspired to boot. We absolutely adored all the shocking pink gowns and that unforgettable sculptural, soft purple tulle showstopper!

Watch Danny Reinke’s show here:

Softest tulle – at Danny Reinke. Image Credit Fashion Street Berlin

A polka dot and Dalmation ensemble – at Danny Reinke

Plaid and organza – at Danny Reinke

Shocking pink satin – at Danny Reinke

A show stopping soft purple tulle sculptural piece – at Danny Reinke

Fluid shocking pink satin – at Danny Reinke

Sculptural and dramatic – at Danny Reinke

 

Killian Kerner

Undoubtedly one of the most elegant and glamorous collections at Mercedes Benz Berlin was that of Killian Kerner. Black dresses with impossibly high slits, extravagant metallic gold frilly jacket suits and fragile, lacey dresses were juxtaposed with sporty ‘boxing’ gear and metallic tuxedo suits. Oversized knitted hats, scarves and snazzy sunglasses accessorized this most ‘more-ish’ of collections.

During the finale, the most unforgettable moment of the show was when Kilian Kerner sent out his models and team in black hoodies stating ‘Peace’. Underlining the bold statement was a video of different people asking to “Stop the war!” playing in the background.

Watch Killian Kerner’s show here:

Classic simplicity – at Killian Kerner

Frilly metallics and tulle – at Killian Kerner

Looking elegant for boxing – at Killian Kerner

Virginal white with a tad of gold – at Killian Kerner

A symphony of delicate green lace – at Killian Kerner

Beyond elegant – a frilly monochrome maxi dress at Killian Kerner

Suave glamour – at Killian Kerner

 

Marcel Ostertag

Brightest sunshine yellow, pillar box red, turquoise and caterpillar green colour blocking boldness were juxtaposed with lavender floral prints to create a collection that was full of good vibes and cheer. In fact, the Marcel Ostertag’s runway saw just about every colour under the rainbow! The shapes were inspired and often had a Seventies feel about them: flowy caftans were worn with shirt dresses, maxi coats and knits, there were power suits in monochromes and all-over sequins with palazzo pants and tailored jackets. This is a positive collection that is, in the words of the designer, ‘made with love and made to make you shine’!

Lavender floral prints and sequin embroidery – at Marcel Ostertag

Colour blocking looks incredible – at Marcel Ostertag

Pillar Box red lace – at Marcel Ostertag

Brightest sunshine yellow, so cheery! At Marcel Ostertag

 

Sofia Ilmonen

Winner of the 2021 Sustainability award at the Festival de Mode de Hyères, Finnish designer Sofia Ilmonen opened Mercedes Benz Berlin Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2022. This designer has a very unique method of creating her super feminine and delicate pieces: her tailoring cleverly consists of attaching square modular pieces together to create these wonderfully romantic garments. The colours were equally inspiring: classic white, black and silver stood alongside petrol blue, bright yellow, purple and dusty pink. We loved the dramatic eye make-up on the models!

Modular creations in stunning colours – at Sofia Ilmonen

Striking make-up and nails to complement the collection – at Sofia Ilmonen

A stunning white tiered and strappy dress – at Sofia Ilmonen

 

Esther Perbandt

Esther Perbandt had her very own line of fabrics created in Italy for Fall 2022: jacquard silk-linen and digital renditions of her hand-drawings and photographs in her signature black colour range – and the collection is totally unique for it. Flowy maxi dresses with rope details, silk men’s shirts, kimonos and bomber jackets graced the runway, all ever so covetable! The silhouettes verged on the avant-garde with their billowing sleeves and soft shapes, they’re perfectly suited to someone who wants a little more drama in their life/wardrobe!

Watch Esther Perbandt’s show here:

Dramatic sleeves on this coat – at Esther Perbandt

Subtly printed silk-satin – at Esther Perbandt

Gold embellishments on this leotard and cape ensemble – at Esther Perbandt

Avant-garde organza in this striking dress – at Esther Perbandt

A cummerbund cinches in the wait in this cheeky little outfit – at Esther Perbandt

Drama! At Esther Perbandt

 

Elias Rumelis

The epitome of chic and effortless streetwear, Frankfurt-based designer Elias Rumelis’ Fall 2022 collection is very non-mainstream! It’s full of quirky contrasts and unexpected elements: ensembles like sweat suits with cargo pockets and buckles and matching coats and jackets with their embroidery details. We love the rainbow effects on the sweaters as well as the double plaid suit (a big trend for 2022) with its sweat pants and bomber jacket. Duffel bags, bucket hats (another huge trend for 2022), graffiti and smiley faces were very Nineties hip hop, with silhouettes pushing the boundaries of being either spayed-on skintight or exaggeratedly oversized.

The Black Rider! At Elias Rumelis

A skin-tight bodysuit – at Elias Rumelis

Dramatic make-up backstage – at Elias Rumelis

Rainbow squiggles and stripes – at Elias Rumelis

A message of hope and sheer – at Elias Rumelis

Double plaid – a huge trend for 2022 – at Elias Rumelis

 

Rebekka Ruetz

Austrian designer Rebekka Ruetz created a very feminine collection for Fall 2022: bold shades and asymmetrical cuts meet softer, skin-caressing fabrics – wool, finest cotton, lovely lace and vegan leather – to become flowy dresses, loose trench coats, layered skirts and asymmetrical blouses. Her use of vibrant colours is inspired and joyous. We particularly adored the padded rainbow gown and the caramel trench with its digital designs and acid green belt.

Watch Rebekka Ruetz’show here:

Asymmetrical shocking pink – at Rebekka Ruetz

Digital animal prints in this trench coat with its poison green belt – at Rebekka Ruetz

Cheery roses – at Rebekka Ruetz

Padded rainbow-inspired dresses – at Rebekka Ruetz

Elegant asymmetry in this shocking pink printed dress – at Rebekka Ruetz

As we say goodbye to the wonderful Mercedes Benz Berlin fashion Week Autumn Winter 2022, we’ll leave you with a message of love and hope in one dress.

 

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