Everything You Need to Know About Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring 2023

Jaime E. Love


Milan Fashion Week Men’s is heating up this week with the strong return to shows this season, after years of digital events and presentations now in the rear-view mirror.

Dsquared2 opened the week as the first physical fashion show on Friday, followed by 1017 Alyx 9SM’s runway show and presentations from Kiton and Billionaire. Zegna, the week’s typical opener, will close the festivities on Monday night. In between, spring/summer 2023 collections from Fendi, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Gucci and more will be must-sees.

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Below, a look at everything you need to know about Milan Fashion Week Men’s spring/summer 2023 season, from buzzy runway moments, the best shoes at presentations around the city, and the top trends from showrooms, parties and more.

Emporio Armani

Designer Giorgio Armani with the models of the Emporio Armani spring 2023 show in Milan. - Credit: STEFANO GUINDANI

Designer Giorgio Armani with the models of the Emporio Armani spring 2023 show in Milan. – Credit: STEFANO GUINDANI

STEFANO GUINDANI

This season, designer Giorgio Armani’s younger contemporary label takes the vacation spirit to a new level, with shirts and soft trousers taking center stage in the collection.

The shapes barely touch the body, allowing it to breathe during the summer months. Bold details – slits, vertical openings, cuts – reveal the skin, adding a note of vibrant sensuality that continues in shortened shorts and overalls that almost entirely reveal the legs. Pleated trousers caress the figure, while deconstructed blazers reaffirm a cornerstone of Armani style, here in new jacquard models.

As for footwear, a new molded slip-on style sneaker was introduced as well as a new leather boot.

Brioni

Credit: Courtesy of Brioni

Credit: Courtesy of Brioni

Courtesy of Brioni

The Roman brand’s new spring/summer 2023 collection is another foray into summer nonchalance, featuring soft tailoring in breezy fabrics. Unveiled on Saturday inside a hidden garden in Milan, everything is soft and light and meant to move with the wind. Standout items include the seersucker suit with matching belt, shirt and bucket hat as well as the introduction of a women’s tuxedo look.

All of the looks were paired with round toe loafers, leather sandals, or the brand-new crocodile leather loafer.

Brunello Cucinelli

Credit: Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli

Credit: Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli

Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli

The Italian luxury brand is not afraid of color this season. In fact, Brunello is using a wider range of color than he typically does in his menswear range. Ginger-hued red, salmon orange, sunflower yellow and a wide range of light blues such as periwinkle, Oxford and ultramarine combine with the brand’s signature array of greys, blues and light beiges that represent the cornerstone of the collection.

As for footwear, the brand is finding success in the category after several years of growing and placing emphasis on its shoes. Standouts include the range of casual-meets-dress shoes, as seen in a pair of tassel loafers in chocolate brown suede, double-strap suede sandals, and new sneaker styles.

Boss x Khaby

Credit: Courtesy of BOSS

Credit: Courtesy of BOSS

Courtesy of BOSS

Hugo Boss’ Boss label celebrated the launch of its new collection with TikTok star Khaby Lame a special event in Milan on Friday night.

The capsule is comprised of all-black styles with leather details and a signature logo depicting Khaby’s likeness. The pieces include a T-shirt, hoodie, and varsity jacket. To round out the collection, a doll of the social media star co-created by Khaby will be released on his social media channels. It is designed to be both a standalone accessory and an attachment that can be snapped onto the hoodie.

Billionaire

Credit: Courtesy of Billionaire

Credit: Courtesy of Billionaire

Courtesy of Billionaire

Designer Philipp Plein presented the new spring/summer 2023 collection for his elevated tailored brand Billionaire on Friday at the Four Seasons hotel in Milan.

Designed for the gentleman who is ready to embrace the warm summer vibes, opulent silk robes and pajamas are offered alongside deluxe leather travel accessories and tailored clothing offered in bright hues.

Most of the footwear styles this season are carry-overs from previous collections, updated to reflect spring 2023’s identity. According to Plein, “you will not see any sporty, running sneakers in this collection, only loafers, simple white lace-up sneakers and casual dress shoes.”

Kiton

Credit: Courtesy of Kiton

Credit: Courtesy of Kiton

Courtesy of Kiton

The Italian luxury brand showcased its spring/summer 2023 with an evening presentation at the Palazzo on Via Pontaccio in Milan on Friday night. The evening’s installation presented 32 men’s and 12 women’s outfits, which are a sneak peek of the forthcoming women’s spring/summer 2023 collection.

Red is the main color of the setting: from the light design of the venue to the glass walls of the structure containing the outfits. Everything refers to the Red Dot, the graphic sign embroidered on every garment, which now lends its name to a cultural container to promote Kiton’s heritage.

According to Kiton, a series of Red Dot-branded initiatives will take off, with worldwide traveling events that will promote tailoring, patronage, looking towards the future, and sustainability.

1017 Alyx 9SM

Credit: Courtesy of 1017 Alyx 9SM

Credit: Courtesy of 1017 Alyx 9SM

Courtesy of 1017 Alyx 9SM

1017 Alyx 9SM designer Matthew M. Williams is amping up his footwear offering for spring 2023.

Following the developments of fall/winter 2022, this season’s collection features the Mono Boot in an expanded range of experimental colors and high tech yet artisanal special treatments.

This season also marks the introduction of the Aria sneaker in both high and low variations. This sneaker uses the knowhow acquired during the development of the Mono range to create a thick statement sole that is visually impactful while simultaneously incredibly lightweight. The signature sole is then mounted on a lightweight upper allowing for high breathability and ease of wear during the summer heat.

Dsquared2

Credit: Courtesy of Dsquared2

Credit: Courtesy of Dsquared2

Courtesy of Dsquared2

Dsquared2 gets quirky for its spring/summer 2023 men’s collection. Multi-color surfer prints, crochet and knits with flowers and stripes mix with tailoring and biker wear detailed with Honda’s iconic logo – part of a collaboration with the motorcycle company for the collection.

Also, an homage to the Bob Marley Foundation is found in prints and patches on outerwear, bags and T-shirts. Dsquared2 DNA gets tubed: maxi shorts in checked nylon, tie-dye shirts and hoodies are paired with flared ‘70s denim pants and soft leather ringed sandals. Tech sandals, leather sandals, white boot shoes and biker mode boots are also seen throughout the collection.

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